Ciqikou Chongqing: Ancient Town of Porcelain, Street Snacks, and Endless Charm (磁器口古镇)

If you’re a fan of Chongqing’s ancient towns, then chances are you know how to appreciate character, history, and FOOD—lots and lots of food. Ciqikou (磁器口) has all of the above and more; it’s one of my favorite ancient towns in the city, and it’s a place I never hesitate to revisit.

Before becoming the crowded riverside tourist attraction that you know today, Ciqikou was an old village called Long Yin (龙隐镇). During the Ming and Qing dynasties, it quietly rose to fame by producing porcelain goods.

Picture the village from hundreds of years ago. Stone-paved, narrow streets. Slanted roofs on wooden houses. Smoke coming from outside the buildings where craftsmen fired the kilns after molding freshly-poured porcelain. Boats waiting along the Jialing River nearby to load up and head to the towns and cities further upriver. Porcelain was the lifeblood of this village, and eventually it took the name “Ciqikou” which means Porcelain Mouth.

The local folklore includes an ancient poem that once described the hustle and bustle of Ciqikou:

白日里千人拱手，入夜后万盏明灯- a thousand people greet each other in the day; ten thousand lanterns glow through the night.

Nowadays, it still feels just as lively as that.

Our Visit To Ciqikou

We arrived on a Tuesday afternoon. I didn’t expect it to be overly crowded (after all, it was a weekday), but you would never know that once you’re inside.

The main entrance is a tall gate that opens out into a narrow, sloped street lined with wooden shops. Every few feet, there are people stopping to take photos, buy snacks, or look at souvenirs. It feels like a cross between Jiufen in Taiwan, a fish market in Japan, and a sardine tin.

It’s crowded, it’s noisy, and it’s a little overwhelming, but it’s also all so charming. The Chongqing old town vibes, the wooden beams, the rough brickwork, the quaint lanterns, and the mouth-watering food odors from every shop on the streets—the place has character from the second you walk in.

I actually ended up loving the crowds in Ciqikou, though it took me a while to get used to the noise. It’s nice to see travelers of all nationalities, families from the city, and elderly local residents all weaving in and out of the old town streets at their own pace.

Snack After Snack After Snack: Food Heaven in Chongqing’s Ancient Town

If you can somehow visit Ciqikou without snacking your way through the old town, you’re doing it wrong. Ciqikou is like a giant street food market—the entire old town is a long street filled with vendors all steaming, frying, roasting, and grilling their specialties.

No exaggeration, it smells good every few meters.

Tanghulu (糖葫芦) – Sweet, Crunchy Childhood Nostalgia

Our first stop of the day was none other than Tanghulu (糖葫芦), the glossy red candied hawthorn skewers we all grew up eating as children. Crunchy on the outside with a natural sour flavor to balance out the sugar.

Nicole’s face pretty much sums it all up: Tanghulu is always a good idea.

Braised Pig Trotters – Melt-in-Your-Mouth Comfort Food

Stepping just a few meters in, we were hit by the aroma of braised meat. One of the largest trays of steaming pig trotters we’d ever seen was laid out, glistening in the light. This is not a light snack, by the way—it’s rich, fatty, savory, collagen-packed, and comfort food heaven.

If you like bold, strong flavors, it’s an absolute must-try.

Jianbing (煎饼) – Crispy, Hot, and Fresh Off the Pan

We then walked by a Jianbing (煎饼) stall. Jianbing used to be a breakfast dish from Northern China, but now it’s found all over the country. It’s one of my favorite street foods because it’s simple, fragrant, and filling.

You can pick chicken, beef, or pork fillings, and the pancake is made freshly in front of you.

Watching the vendor mix the dough, heat the pan, spread it, then flip it and press it flat was almost hypnotizing.

The crisp edges and sesame seeds, the sizzling sound—it was one of my favorite snacks from the Ciqikou ancient town.

Crab Soup Packets – A Nice Surprise Discovery

I only stopped by this stall because I had never seen anything like it anywhere else: Crab Soup Packets (蟹黄汤包).

It reminded me of a cross between a xiao long bao from Shanghai and a steamed bun, except with crab meat and a richer soup inside. The shop’s signboard alone was mouth-watering enough to lure you in.

Indian Roti Prata – A Touch of Global Street Food in the Middle of Chongqing

A small group of visitors were gathered around a stall we had actually never noticed before—Indian roti prata. Watching the chefs in their tall white hats whipping up dough and spinning the golden roti, with tourists peeking in and out, felt like a mini culture shock in the middle of Sichuan.

In a way, it also tells you how international Ciqikou has become: not just a historical destination, but also a place where global street foods and flavors naturally seep into the ancient streets.

Hong Qi Gong Beggar’s Chicken (叫化鸡) – The Main Attraction

We finally decided to have some lunch, and our choice was the renowned Hong Qi Gong Jiao Hua Ji (洪七公叫化鸡). I’ve tried beggar’s chicken before (Hangzhou version) but this one was on a whole different level.

The chicken is tightly wrapped in lotus leaves before being sealed in a clay pot and baked. When you open it, the aroma alone makes you want to dive right in instantly.

The chicken skin was infused with the flavor and fragrance of the lotus leaves, and the meat was impossibly tender—juicy and full of flavor with every bite. No wonder this shop always has a long queue. They also provide plastic gloves so you can enjoy the chicken without worrying about oily fingers.

It immediately became one of my top 3 dishes of Chongqing.

The Inimitable Chen Jian Ping Mahua (陈建平麻花)

One thing to note here: not all Mahua vendors are created equal in Ciqikou. Lots of stalls will try to copy the brand and the packaging but trust me, there is only one real Chen Jian Ping.

Mahua is a classic fried dough twist—golden, slightly sweet, crunchy, and extremely addictive. The original shop is always the one with the longest queue, so use that as your guide.

We bought a few boxes to take home and they were all gone within a week.

Shopping For Souvenirs – What to buy in Ciqikou?

Ciqikou is not just a foodie paradise. It’s also a great place to shop for artisan gifts, souvenirs, and handmade craft.

Here are some of the unique things we spotted (though there’s a lot more):

Bamboo Cups

Made out of real bamboo tree trunks, then polished to a smooth finish. These are great souvenirs to bring home.

Wooden Keychains with Chinese Surnames

All of the Chinese surnames neatly and beautifully engraved on pieces of wood.

Handmade Aeolian Bells

Beautiful, delicate, and soothing, these are great home décor pieces.

Live Portrait Drawing

Mini street art studios by the sidewalk where artists sketch your portrait on the spot.

Handmade Nougat

Soft, chewy, and stuffed with nuts inside—very popular among tourists.

This isn’t to say that you have to be into shopping, but wandering through these streets and craft shops also adds a fun and charming dimension to the Ciqikou experience.

As you explored further into Ciqikou, you can find a street that has many cafes and bars. To make things better, there are also live bands singing popular songs here.

Bao Lun Temple (宝轮寺): Peace and Quiet in the Middle of the Crowd

Somewhere in the middle of the noise and the crowds, we discovered Bao Lun Temple, a Buddhist temple that dates back over 1,500 years. The entrance is just 5 RMB, and it’s a quick walk (with some effort) up the stairs.

It’s a calm area, and you get a nice view looking down at parts of Ciqikou. A good place to get a break from the main street crowd.

Strolling and Street Photography

Take your time & take a stroll and experience this beautiful and busy town. Don’t forget to take some beautiful photos too.

Tips For Visiting Ciqikou in Chongqing

Here are a few last-minute tips we learned from our own experience:

• Visit on a weekday if possible, as the crowds are much less than weekends.
• Visit on an empty stomach—the food here is the main reason to come, after all.
• Bring cash and/or Alipay/WeChat Pay—some smaller vendors do not accept card payments.
• Wear comfortable shoes as the old streets are bumpy.
• Follow the queues—shops that are busy and have a queue are usually busy for a reason.
• Wander around the small alleys, not just the main street. You can find some quieter spots and better photo opportunities.

Wrap Up

Ciqikou was not what I expected, but in a good way. I think I envisioned a somewhat ordinary old town, when what I got was a crazy mix of history, food, culture, and small discoveries. It’s crowded, it’s noisy, it’s chaotic, but it’s also charming, warm, and full of character and personality.

Whether you go for the food, photography, shopping, or simply to soak in the old-town atmosphere, Ciqikou does not disappoint. And even though the place is big and busy, my advice is to take your time, wander slowly, and let it all reveal itself.