Phoenix Ancient City (凤凰古城), or Fenghuang Ancient Town as it is otherwise known, is easily one of the most beautiful and well-preserved ancient towns in China. Located on both sides of the Tuojiang River in Hunan province, this quaint 300-year-old town is known for its old-fashioned wooden stilt houses (Diaojiaolou), historic stone bridges, night scenery, and Miao ethnic culture.
I had been wanting to visit Fenghuang for quite some time before my trip to Hunan. After finally making it to Phoenix Ancient City, I was blown away. Whether you’re wandering peacefully along the river in the mornings or exploring busy night markets lit up with thousands of colorful lights, Fenghuang really offers something different than other places I have been to in China.
In this guide, I will cover everything you need to know about Fenghuang including my personal experience exploring Fenghuang Ancient Town, what to do, where to eat, how to get there, travel tips, scams to avoid, and more!
‘Feng Huang” name comes from the Feng Huang Mountain situated 50 miles away.
Phoenix Ancient City at a Glance
| Information | Details |
|---|---|
| Chinese Name | 凤凰古城 |
| Province | Hunan Province |
| Chinese Name (Pinyin) | Fenghuang Gucheng |
| Built | 1704 (Qing Dynasty) |
| Famous For | Ancient riverside town, Tuojiang River, stilt houses, Miao culture |
| Recommended Stay | 2 Days 1 Night |
| Best Time to Visit | March–May and September–November |
| Nearest High-Speed Rail Station | Fenghuang Gucheng Railway Station |
| Distance from Zhangjiajie | Approximately 230 km |
| UNESCO Status | Included on China’s UNESCO Tentative List |
Why Visit Phoenix Ancient City?
China is home to countless ancient towns. However, Phoenix Ancient City feels unique from your very first step through its gates. Rather than a restored tourist trap devoid of authenticity, Fenghuang really is a town frozen in time. Its residents still live there, work there and run family businesses inside structures that have been around for hundreds of years.
The highlight of the town is the winding Tuojiang River cutting through it. Wooden stilt houses line the banks while small wooden boats bob in the serene waters. Stroll down the tiny stone alleyways and you’ll find ancient archways, temples, tea houses, souvenir stalls, cafés and photo spots galore around every corner.
Night time in Fenghuang is a totally different experience. Thousands of twinkling lights adorn the buildings and bridges along the river, creating one of China’s most picturesque night scenes. Whether you’re into photography, ancient history, tasty eats or just want to sit by the river, Phoenix Ancient City is sure to delight every type of traveller.
History of Phoenix Ancient City
Even though Phoenix Ancient City may seem like it’s frozen in time, most of town wasn’t actually built until the Qing Dynasty. The town was officially founded in 17 04 as a military outpost along China’s southwestern border.
Stretching back for hundreds of years, Fenghuang was a key stop for trading between merchants of Hunan, Guizhou and Sichuan Provinces. Goods were commonly transported along the Tuojiang River which runs through the area.
You’ll also find residents that belong to China’s Miao and Tujia ethnic minorities who have helped shape the town’s identity with their vibrant traditions, festivals and architecture.
The town’s most famous former resident was Chinese writer Shen Congwen. He is well known for his novels which showcased the natural beauty and culture of Fenghuang. His former residence can be visited today.
Now a popular tourist destination that sees millions of visitors every year, Phoenix Ancient City has maintained its charm and is one of China’s most photogenic ancient towns.
Exploring Phoenix Ancient City for the First Time
Phoenix Ancient City is located right at the base of a set of green mountains, with the Tuojiang River running straight through the center. As for that famous postcard shot of rows of wooden stilt houses (Diaojiaolou) lining the riverside? It’s even more impressive in real life.
Phoenix Ancient City takes its name from the Fenghuang Mountain (凤凰山), around 50 miles (80 km) away. The very second I set foot in the old town, I was immediately surrounded by a Chinese historical drama vibe. From stone-paved alleys and arched bridges to ancient houses and red lanterns, it was all so surreal that it almost didn’t feel real.
Enjoying the Beautiful Tuojiang River
As the main artery of the town, Tuojiang River flows right through the center of Phoenix Ancient City. Locals still use traditional wooden rowboats as a mode of daily transportation, and tourists have the option of taking a leisurely 30-minute river cruise.
In my humble opinion, this short cruise is one of the most must-do activities in Fenghuang. With blue sky, wooden houses lining the riverside, and slow floating boats in between – the view is reminiscent of a classic Chinese ink painting.
Hong Qiao is one of the most notable attractions along the river – the famous covered red bridge often seen in Fenghuang travel photos. This photo was taken during the sunset, when the warm golden hue of the sun reflected on the river surface, and lighting up the whole bridge.
The Unexpected Side of Phoenix Ancient City
In a way, most people think of Phoenix Ancient City as an ancient town frozen in time. However, the reality is quite the opposite. Cafés, shops, and restaurants are open and full of life as early as morning hours. You can find everything from street snacks to cool dessert shops to bars with live music.
Eating in Fenghuang
It is safe to say that restaurants within the old town are generally pricier than ones a bit further outside. During our visit, we opted to have dinner at a restaurant just outside of the ancient town – both delicious and much more affordable.
We had a local spread with grilled skewers, spicy local dishes, and of course, beers to accompany them. You’ll notice that a lot of local vendors will challenge you to try their smelly tofu. To be honest, I cannot stand the taste. So, if you’re the adventurous type, why not try it out?
We also had some desserts after our meal. It was a bit of a surprise to us that there were so many Thai-style dessert stalls in the area. Our server recommended their Mango Hotpot, which, in my honest opinion, was one of the best we had in Fenghuang. The drink is essentially a mango lover’s dream – fresh mango slices, mango ice cream, shaved ice, mango smoothie, all combined into a huge bowl.
Nightlife in Phoenix Ancient City
Truth be told, the one thing you really don’t want to miss is the magical Fenghuang at night. As the sun sets, the town suddenly turns into a wonderland of lights. Neon lights are reflected on the river surface, with music and crowds flowing through the streets and gathering at bridges, bars, and food stalls.
Personally, I’d say that Phoenix Ancient City is best explored at night. This is when you truly start to feel the vibe. If you like to chill by the riverside, enjoy some drinks at a local pub, or stroll around at night markets – there’s something for everyone.
⚠️ Beware of the Tian Hou Gong Scam
Don’t bother visiting the Tian Hou Gong – it’s a well-known tourist trap.
When you get there, the temple staff will invite you in for a “free temple tour”. After lighting up some incense, they’ll lead you into another room for a “fortune-reading” session. The priest then proceeds to pressure you to donate money – usually starting at 100 RMB as the minimum. In our travel group, many of the tourists (including our own friends) shared this exact same experience.
It’s best to simply avoid this attraction altogether.
Best Things to Do in Phoenix Ancient City
Walking around aimlessly is great but if you’re looking for more things to do in Fenghuang Ancient Town, here are some highlights you don’t want to miss!
Rent a Wooden Boat Cruise down the Tuojiang River
Hop aboard a wooden boat to enjoy spectacular views of Fenghuang’s iconic riverside stilt houses. The calming cruise will give you a different perspective of Fenghuang as you glide under old bridges and past historic architecture.
Cross Hongqiao Bridge
Lookout for Hongqiao Bridge while exploring Fenghuang – it’s hard to miss the towns most photographed landmark. Climb to the top during the day for a great view, or return after dark to see it light up and watch the reflections dance across the water.
Get Lost in the Ancient Alleys
Wandering the smaller side streets is where Fenghuang really shines. Lose yourself down the tiny lanes and you’ll stumble upon hole-in-the-wall cafés, local artisan shops, residents’ homes, and tranquil spots to relax away from the tourists.
Taste Authentic Hunan Food
You’ll find no shortage of delicious Hunan food in Fenghuang. Known for its heavily flavoured and spicy dishes, be sure to try local street food like grilled skewers, fish hotpot, smoked meats, and if you dare, odorous fermented tofu!
See the Nightlife Views
Fenghuang Ancient Town transforms into a fairytale at night. Colorful lights from rooftop restaurants, street vendors and along the riverside make for a magical experience. Don’t forget to snap a few photos of the illuminated streets and bridges reflecting on the Tuojiang River.
Best Time to Visit Phoenix Ancient City
Phoenix Ancient City is an all-year-round destination. Spring and autumn are considered the best time to visit due to the favorable weather.
March to May: As the spring season comes, the weather is very comfortable to walk around with flowers blossoming and green mountains that hug the ancient town.
June to August: This is the hottest time of year. Some rain can be expected but that doesn’t stop the fun. Summer is also the season for nightlife. If you’re visiting during school holiday time, it may be more crowded but that’s also when Phoenix Ancient City truly comes alive at night.
September to November: Many say that this is the best time to visit Phoenix Ancient City. The temperatures are cooler, and the skies are clear with vibrant colors everywhere. It’s a photographers dream and great for sightseeing.
December to February: These months are the least visited. It can get quite cold but that also allows you to experience Xi’an’s hidden treasure at a slower pace.
How to Get to Phoenix Ancient City
Travel to Phoenix Ancient City has been made easy by the introduction of high-speed rail service.
Take a high-speed train from Zhangjiajie to Fenghuang Gucheng Railway Station in about one hour and then transfer via local shuttle bus or taxi into the ancient town.
High-speed rail services from Changsha arrive in about 2.5-3 hours depending on your train.
Connections can be made from other major Chinese cities to Changsha and then on to Fenghuang via high-speed rail.
Once you’ve arrived in Phoenix Ancient City travel within the town is completely on foot. Most of the attractions are near each other and the ancient narrow lanes don’t allow vehicles.
Travel Tips for Visiting Phoenix Ancient City
Having spent some time exploring Fenghuang here are some tips that will hopefully make your stay more convenient.
Night and day – Visit during both times of day. Fenghuang has two completely different atmospheres after dark.
Stay overnight – Make sure to stay overnight and catch the riverside views lit up at night.
Stay near the river – Ensure that you book an accommodation that is a walking distance from the river.
Comfortable walking shoes – Most roads are paved with irregular stones.
Eat where the locals eat – Restaurants further from the main crowded tourist streets tend to have cheaper prices and more authentic local food.
Look out for your possessions – Especially at weekends and public holidays the town floods with people so keep an eye on your valuables.
Beware fortune telling and donation traps – Some temples will have strangers coming up to you asking you for donations after trying to give you a fortune telling.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Phoenix Ancient City worth visiting?
Yes! Phoenix Ancient City is one of the most beautiful ancient towns in China, offering a wonderful blend of history, culture, traditional architecture, riverside scenery, and vibrant nightlife. Whether you’re interested in photography, local food, or simply soaking up the atmosphere, Fenghuang is well worth adding to your China itinerary.
How long should I spend in Fenghuang?
Most travellers spend 2 days and 1 night in Fenghuang. This gives you enough time to explore the ancient streets, take a boat ride along the Tuojiang River, sample local Hunan cuisine, and experience the town’s spectacular night views.
Is Phoenix Ancient City expensive?
Not particularly. Entry to Phoenix Ancient City itself is generally free, although certain attractions, museums, and river cruises charge separate admission fees. Food and accommodation are available for a range of budgets, making Fenghuang an affordable destination for most travellers.
Is Fenghuang better than Furong Ancient Town?
Both ancient towns are worth visiting, but they offer different experiences. Phoenix Ancient City is larger and has more attractions, restaurants, cafés, and nightlife. Furong Ancient Town, on the other hand, is famous for its spectacular waterfall that flows directly through the centre of the village. If you have time, visiting both makes for an excellent Hunan itinerary.
Can you visit Phoenix Ancient City from Zhangjiajie?
Yes! Many travellers combine Zhangjiajie National Forest Park with Phoenix Ancient City on the same trip. The high-speed train journey takes around one hour, making Fenghuang an easy and popular side trip from Zhangjiajie.
What food should I try in Phoenix Ancient City?
Be sure to try local Hunan favourites such as spicy grilled skewers, Hunan fish hotpot, smoked meats, rice noodles, and freshly grilled river fish. If you’re feeling adventurous, don’t leave without trying stinky tofu (臭豆腐)—it’s one of the region’s most famous street foods and a must-try for adventurous food lovers.
Final Thoughts
Overall, I had a really great time during my short trip to Phoenix Ancient City. From breathtaking riverside scenery to night views to eating – Fenghuang is really living up to the hype. It is one of those few places in China that have such a great combination of history, culture, and modern leisure activities.
Whether you are planning a visit to Hunan or simply looking for a relaxing getaway with a little character, Phoenix Ancient City is worth checking out.
Hi. Can I know which hotel do you stay for the night?
Thanks.