There’s a reason why Fenghuang (凤凰古镇), also known as Phoenix Ancient City, is considered one of the most beautiful ancient towns in China. This year, I checked in this ancient town in Hunan and instantly fell in love with this beautiful historic place. From the food, river, nightlife, and simply the atmosphere in general – Fenghuang is the perfect place to get away and unwind. It is one of those rare places where the time seems to slow down, and at least for a moment, we city folks can imagine living in a simpler world.
‘Feng Huang” name comes from the Feng Huang Mountain situated 50 miles away.
Exploring Phoenix Ancient City for the First Time
Phoenix Ancient City is located right at the base of a set of green mountains, with the Tuojiang River running straight through the center. As for that famous postcard shot of rows of wooden stilt houses (Diaojiaolou) lining the riverside? It’s even more impressive in real life.
Phoenix Ancient City takes its name from the Fenghuang Mountain (凤凰山), around 50 miles (80 km) away. The very second I set foot in the old town, I was immediately surrounded by a Chinese historical drama vibe. From stone-paved alleys and arched bridges to ancient houses and red lanterns, it was all so surreal that it almost didn’t feel real.
Enjoying the Beautiful Tuojiang River
As the main artery of the town, Tuojiang River flows right through the center of Phoenix Ancient City. Locals still use traditional wooden rowboats as a mode of daily transportation, and tourists have the option of taking a leisurely 30-minute river cruise.
In my humble opinion, this short cruise is one of the most must-do activities in Fenghuang. With blue sky, wooden houses lining the riverside, and slow floating boats in between – the view is reminiscent of a classic Chinese ink painting.
Hong Qiao is one of the most notable attractions along the river – the famous covered red bridge often seen in Fenghuang travel photos. This photo was taken during the sunset, when the warm golden hue of the sun reflected on the river surface, and lighting up the whole bridge.
The Unexpected Side of Phoenix Ancient City
In a way, most people think of Phoenix Ancient City as an ancient town frozen in time. However, the reality is quite the opposite. Cafés, shops, and restaurants are open and full of life as early as morning hours. You can find everything from street snacks to cool dessert shops to bars with live music.
Eating in Fenghuang
It is safe to say that restaurants within the old town are generally pricier than ones a bit further outside. During our visit, we opted to have dinner at a restaurant just outside of the ancient town – both delicious and much more affordable.
We had a local spread with grilled skewers, spicy local dishes, and of course, beers to accompany them. You’ll notice that a lot of local vendors will challenge you to try their smelly tofu. To be honest, I cannot stand the taste. So, if you’re the adventurous type, why not try it out?
We also had some desserts after our meal. It was a bit of a surprise to us that there were so many Thai-style dessert stalls in the area. Our server recommended their Mango Hotpot, which, in my honest opinion, was one of the best we had in Fenghuang. The drink is essentially a mango lover’s dream – fresh mango slices, mango ice cream, shaved ice, mango smoothie, all combined into a huge bowl.
Nightlife in Phoenix Ancient City
Truth be told, the one thing you really don’t want to miss is the magical Fenghuang at night. As the sun sets, the town suddenly turns into a wonderland of lights. Neon lights are reflected on the river surface, with music and crowds flowing through the streets and gathering at bridges, bars, and food stalls.
Personally, I’d say that Phoenix Ancient City is best explored at night. This is when you truly start to feel the vibe. If you like to chill by the riverside, enjoy some drinks at a local pub, or stroll around at night markets – there’s something for everyone.
⚠️ Beware of the Tian Hou Gong Scam
Don’t bother visiting the Tian Hou Gong – it’s a well-known tourist trap.
When you get there, the temple staff will invite you in for a “free temple tour”. After lighting up some incense, they’ll lead you into another room for a “fortune-reading” session. The priest then proceeds to pressure you to donate money – usually starting at 100 RMB as the minimum. In our travel group, many of the tourists (including our own friends) shared this exact same experience.
It’s best to simply avoid this attraction altogether.
Travel Tips to Visit Phoenix Ancient City
To help you plan a smoother trip, I’ve put together a list of useful travel tips from my visit:
- Keep your belongings close – The old town tends to get very crowded at night, especially around the riverside area. Keep your bags zipped and secured at all times.
- Beware of tourist scams – As beautiful as it is, Phoenix Ancient City is not immune to the tourist scams that unfortunately exist in many popular travel spots in China. Stay vigilant and avoid pushy tour guides and shops.
- Optimize your dining choices – Food within the old town tends to be more expensive. You can save a bit by dining at the restaurants outside of the most touristy streets.
- Duration of the visit – Visiting Phoenix Ancient City for 2 days 1 night is generally sufficient for checking out the sights around the old town, going on a river cruise, trying some street food, and enjoying nightlife.
Getting to Phoenix Ancient City
Final Thoughts
Overall, I had a really great time during my short trip to Phoenix Ancient City. From breathtaking riverside scenery to night views to eating – Fenghuang is really living up to the hype. It is one of those few places in China that have such a great combination of history, culture, and modern leisure activities.
Whether you are planning a visit to Hunan or simply looking for a relaxing getaway with a little character, Phoenix Ancient City is worth checking out.
Hi. Can I know which hotel do you stay for the night?
Thanks.