In our second year of parenting, I continued to keep a sense of self amidst the busyness and fulfillment of life. Finally, my husband and I planned a budget trip to a new and unfamiliar land. While we entrusted our 2 year old daughter to my mother-in-law, my conscience wouldn’t let me stay away for too long, so we limited our travel plan to within a 5-hour flight range from Singapore. After eliminating destinations with odd weather and places we’ve already been to, there weren’t many options left. Laos seemed like the ideal choice. Although there are no direct flights from Singapore to Luang Prabang and the only suitable flights are from the dreaded AirAsia… well, AirAsia it is.
- Laos
- City Walk: A Culinary Stroll
- Popolo
- Lost in Bann
- Dada Cafe
- Khemkhong View Restaurant
- Le Banneton Cafe and French Bakery
- Mekong River Sunset Cruise
- Kuang Si Waterfall: Embracing Wilderness
- Transportation
- Airport to Hotel
- Kuang Si Waterfall Day Trip
- Hotels
- Luang Prabang Itinerary
- Visa
- Kip and Currency Exchange
- Expenses
- ⚠️ Travel Tips
- Thoughts
Laos
Laos, has its capital in Vientiane. However, our destination, Luang Prabang, was the former capital during the Lan Xang Kingdom period, a town with over a thousand years of history.
Like most Southeast Asian countries, Laos shares a lot of cultural and historical interactions with its neighboring countries and has experienced a series of colonial histories. Luang Prabang, where we are headed, retains a relatively intact French architectural complex and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Luang Prabang is actually not very large, covering 100,000 square kilometers, with few direct flights domestically and internationally. Fortunately, a high-speed railway opened in 2021, making travel much easier. The town has also been featured in famous variety shows like “Keep Running” and “Divas Hit the Road”. As a Buddhist holy land in Laos, Luang Prabang boasts countless temples. The morning alms-giving has become a must-visit attraction for tourists (having experienced it in Myanmar, we did not include it in our itinerary this time).
I personally think that the slow-paced life here is reminiscent of a low-budget version of Chiang Mai. Why a low-budget version? Because the tourism industry here is not as developed as in Chiang Mai, and it’s not as heavily commercialized. While it may not be as playful and convenient, it is still worth a visit for a laid-back foreign experience. Moreover, there are some very distinctive luxury hotels here. When mentioning Laos to friends, most of them were baffled. They probably wondered why anyone would want to travel to a remote and impoverished part of Southeast Asia. Indeed, in my mind, Laos is a travel destination that combines the characteristics of both Myanmar and Thailand, both of which I have already visited.
However, the meaning of travel is not just to experience something new. For me, it is an opportunity to seek the truth, whether it is as plain as people say or full of surprises. Travel is about seeking answers with curiosity within a controlled range. Or perhaps, you don’t need a purpose or meaning to set off.
City Walk: A Culinary Stroll
The main must do thing in Luang Prabang’s main town is a city walk. The area isn’t large, and it took us less than 20 minutes to walk from Satri House. As shown in the picture (from Satri House), there are mainly two streets. The one by the river (red marker 1) has many riverside restaurants, and the main street (red marker 2) is the so-called “foreigner street” where the night market and various restaurants are located. Hidden in the alleys connecting the two streets are some good restaurants. The further you go to the right on the map, the more French architecture you will see. So, Luang Prabang is really suitable for spontaneous travel, and you can get a good sense of the local situation within minutes of arrival.
Additionally, you can use Foodpanda for delivery, though it’s not cheap. After three days of eating, my overall impression is that you won’t encounter bad food, and there will be occasional surprises. Since the area is small, almost all restaurants have online recommendations, so there’s no need to make too many plans. Choose whichever restaurant suits you, and if you don’t like a cheap one, it’s not a loss; just switch to another. The key is to stay relaxed.
This is the night market food stall area, with local and foreign snacks. I didn’t eat there because there were too many flies.
Popolo
Recommendation: 🌟🌟🌟🌟
- A highly recommended restaurant on Google and Xiaohongshu, specializing in pizza. I didn’t plan to go, but many restaurants were closed on Monday evening, so I went with a try-it-out attitude. The pizza was freshly baked, and the pineapple pizza was surprisingly delicious! The best part was that a pizza and two glasses of water cost around 20 SGD , which is impossibly cheap by Singapore standards!
Lost in Bann
Recommendation: 🌟🌟🌟🌟🌟
- We wanted to go here for dinner on the first day, but it was closed on Monday. During the off-season, it was almost empty, but it’s said to have queues in the peak season! Overall, this is a Laotian fusion restaurant that surprised both my husband and me. Highly recommend the black rice pork and the new-style mapo tofu, which we had never tried before. The meal cost 600k Kip, making it the most expensive meal of the trip (excluding the cruise), but it was worth it! This mapo tofu was unique. The pork was oily but not greasy. The black rice was fragrant.
Dada Cafe
Recommendation: 🌟🌟🌟
- Another highly recommended place for its coffee. We stopped by for a break, and the drinks were reasonably priced at around $1.5 USD. The place was simple, with outdoor river view seating.
Khemkhong View Restaurant
- Recommendation: 🌟🌟🌟
- A riverside barbecue restaurant specializing in Laotian barbecue hotpot. Southeast Asian hotpots, whether in Cambodia, Thailand, or Laos, have similar styles but different seasonings. Personally, I prefer Thailand’s spicy and sour flavors. Laos wasn’t as sour but had tripe, which was surprising. The prices were reasonable, with a two-person set and two sodas costing around 300k Kip. It wasn’t hot at night, and many locals also came to check in.
Le Banneton Cafe and French Bakery
Recommendation: 🌟🌟🌟
- On the last day, we had only 110k Kip left, so I found this place for breakfast. A chocolate crepe, a coffee, and a tea cost exactly 109k Kip. Perfect!
Mekong River Sunset Cruise
My love for boat cruises (small wooden boats) is indescribable. The Mekong River runs through six countries, and only Cambodia remains on my list (not very interested). Although the Mekong River’s water quality isn’t great, the primitive beauty is still there. I searched for cruise companies early on and found Riversun Lao. You can book a shared boat before 2 pm on the same day, while private boats require advance booking. However, the shared boat offers great value, especially during the off-season when our boat had only two tables, almost like a private experience.
The ticket office is near Dada Cafe.
Boarding at 4:30 pm, we took a small boat to the larger boat across the river. The sun was still strong, so make sure to use sunscreen. Even on the boat, the table position was still exposed to the sun. Although the boat provided parasols and ice water, the tropical heat was palpable. The boat cruised slowly, passing by rows of wooden houses on the shore, giving a sense that time had slowed down. You could be bored, or you could relax, or like the girls next to us, take endless photos. In the 2.5 hours, there were three intermittent traditional Laotian performances. The performers were dedicated, and the musicians played quietly on the side. We ordered a Laotian meal set, which was delivered slowly, but it was delicious!
The rolling hills on both sides were covered in greenery. The sunlight was blinding, but I didn’t get to see the sunset. The shimmering water was once again tangible. They also offered Luang Prabang beer, but we don’t drink alcohol. The cruise was ending, and the music on the shore had just begun.
Kuang Si Waterfall: Embracing Wilderness
For out-of-town activities, the main destination is the Kuang Si Waterfall. There are other attractions like buffalo farms and the “Lonely Tree”, but we felt they weren’t necessary, so we only chose Kuang Si Waterfall and a rice field café along the way. We hired a car for $40 a day (found a shop called Let’s Go Tour by the roadside), though you can also share a car, but it’s less flexible with timing, costing less than $10 per person.
As for Kuang Si Waterfall, I recommend lowering your expectations. Some say it’s like a mini Jiuzhaigou, but the scale and scenery are far from comparable. If the weather is bad (like rain), it can be quite boring. Some tips:
- It’s a one-hour drive, with the latter part being bumpy. I felt a bit nauseous.
- Many people jump into the water, but it’s 1.8 meters deep, so for safety, it’s not recommended.
- The water is cold, and the bottom is uneven. Wear non-slip shoes.
- There are changing rooms, but no lockers for personal belongings. There’s a stone bench nearby, but it’s best to have someone watch over your things.
- There’s a restaurant inside.
I intentionally left the photos unedited to show the real Kuang Si Waterfall. There are many fish inside.
Banna Cafe
After about an hour at Kuang Si Waterfall (most of the time hiding from the rain), we headed back to the city and stopped at a rice field café for dinner. I guess “Banna” is inspired by “Xishuangbanna” and means something like “Dam Coffee”. Rice field cafes are a Southeast Asian specialty, found in Thailand and Bali. There are several similar ones here, all quite chill, especially given the low cost in Laos. If it weren’t for the mosquitoes, I could have lounged all afternoon. Highly recommend the fried rice (even the one at the airport was good, with a heavy pepper flavor). Basil pork was like green pepper pork strips and was also acceptable. The fries were hand-cut and fried, quite tasty.
Transportation
Luang Prabang has no public transport, not even Grab, but there’s a local ride-hailing app called Loca, though we heard it’s not very cost-effective. Most of the time, it’s tuk-tuks, hired cars, or bicycles/motorcycles, but our hotel, My Banlao, provided city-wide transfers, so we never had to use other transportation, except for airport transfers. In fact, the city isn’t big. We walked everywhere on the first day, and it took only 20 minutes from Satri House to Popolo.
Airport to Hotel
There are only seven-seater shared vans. Upon exiting customs, you’ll see the ticket counter (the airport is very small). It can take you directly to your hotel. For more than two people, the price is 80,000 Kip for two people, 100,000 Kip for three, and so on.
Kuang Si Waterfall Day Trip
Hired a car for $40 USD a day.
Hotels
If you’re not on a tight budget, I recommend staying at a better hotel, costing more than 100 USD per night. In Southeast Asia, infrastructure isn’t great, and there are many mosquitoes. Though cheap villas with pools are available, better hotels can avoid language barriers, poor hygiene, and safety issues (my two hotels weren’t particularly cheap but still had various problems).
My Banlao Hotel
A boutique hotel with great value. My husband gave it high praise and even wanted to bring my mother-in-law next time. This hotel offers city-wide transfers and free airport transfers for stays of two or more nights. Don’t miss it, as it’s very convenient!
We had them pick us up via a buggy service when we moved from Satri House to this hotel. The hotel spa is reasonably priced, around $20 USD for a full-body massage (prices vary by massage type). It’s better than street massages, which look unhygienic despite being cheap. I wouldn’t recommend spending money on them. Cons: The Wi-Fi is better than at Satri House but still unstable, possibly due to Laos’ internet infrastructure. I was bitten by something, maybe not mosquitoes.
After staying, I understood why Chinese people love this place. Besides the trendy decor, it supports WeChat Pay, some staff speak Chinese, city-wide WhatsApp communication is available, and rooms even provide an iPad for communication, with prompt replies. The hotel also offers various tours and car rentals, slightly more expensive than outside.
Satri House Hotel
A four-star hotel full of Laotian characteristics, it was once the residence of a Laotian prince. “Satri House” means “House of Women”, named by the hotel’s female founder to encourage other Laotian women. There are many female portraits inside, each with a powerful story. Right after booking, I discovered that the “Divas Hit the Road” team also stayed here, so our choice was spot on. Cons: The Wi-Fi is weak, there are many mosquitoes, the furniture is old, and the wooden floor is slippery from frequent polishing. During the off-season, the pool water seemed unchanged. Breakfast is à la carte and quite good. But the hotel itself is great, full of holiday vibes, combining vintage, Chinese aesthetics, and Western charm, creating a cinematic feel. Due to the facilities, I don’t recommend a long stay. The reception area was smooth for check-in. The entrance has a lotus pond, and the restaurant serves as an alternative. Resting pavilions are everywhere. Two green pools.
The bamboo forest at the entrance is very Chinese and private. This was our room. Loved the green tiles. Beautiful view from the window.
Luang Prabang Itinerary
Since there are no direct flights from Singapore, we chose to transit through Bangkok and stay overnight each way. Alternatively, one can fly directly to Vientiane from Singapore and then take the newly built China-Laos Railway to Luang Prabang. However, we weren’t very interested in Vientiane, so we didn’t choose this route.
- 5.19 Singapore – Bangkok
- 5.20 Bangkok – Luang Prabang
- 5.21 Luang Prabang
- 5.22 Luang Prabang
- 5.23 Luang Prabang – Bangkok
- 5.24 Bangkok – Singapore
Visa
Thailand is visa-free, and we cleared customs at Don Mueang Airport in three minutes, which left a deep impression. Laos requires a visa on arrival, costing $20 and a white background photo (an extra dollar if you don’t have a photo). The visa process was smooth, but the customs was very slow, taking about an hour to get out of the airport.
Kip and Currency Exchange
The Lao Kip is only circulated domestically and is difficult to exchange outside the country. Therefore, we exchanged currency at local money changers after arrival. The Lao Development Bank counter at the airport does not offer a great rate, but for small amounts, the difference is negligible. The US dollar remains the most cost-effective currency to exchange. The Kip and US dollar are widely accepted, and some popular stores accept Alipay, WeChat, and Thai Baht. However, prices in RMB are higher than in USD and Kip.
Expenses
✈️ Airfare
- Singapore – Bangkok – Luang Prabang: AirAsia + Thai Lion
- My husband and I spent $700 SGD, roughly $520 USD
🇱🇦 Luang Prabang
- Normally, two people spend 14 USD per meal
- The total cost for food and activities was $180USD.
- Additionally, a sunset cruise paid via Alipay cost $87 USD.
- Accommodation for three nights was about 340 USD
So, the total cost for Luang Prabang, including airfare, was about $1070 USD for two people, $535 USD per person for 4 day, 3 nights trip.
⚠️ Travel Tips
- Always use mosquito repellent.
- Some restaurants close on Mondays, so check Google for opening hours.
- A tuk-tuk within the city should cost around 20k Kip per person, and hiring a car to Kuang Si Waterfall should be within $40 USD. You can bargain for a better rate!
- Based on my experience in Southeast Asia, April is the hottest and driest month, with forest fires in Luang Prabang, so it’s best to avoid traveling then. May and June are the rainy season, with tropical downpours that come and go quickly, cooling things down, making it a recommended time to visit. However, sunsets are hit-or-miss due to clouds.
- The Luang Prabang airport has a small café with decent food and drink, though pricey. It accepts Kip, Baht, and USD.
- Bring toiletries like a toothbrush, as some small hotels do not provide them (My Banlao does not).
Thoughts
In the thriving Southeast Asian tourism scene, Luang Prabang still feels like a newcomer, with much to improve. However, its uncommercialized charm means the local customs remain simple and sincere. Everyone we met during this trip, locals and business owners alike, was very friendly and kind. To some extent, I hope they take their time on the road to commercialization, moving slowly and steadily.
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